Shot Distance & Ethics By Jeremy Rodgers
Archery I routinely practice out to 110 yards! I get a lot of funny looks or plain discontent from others for shooting that far, yet I see people miss animals at less than 40 yards. I feel I can hit the lung area, about 10" diameter, out to 97 yards with the newer equipment. I consider this to be MOA accuracy with a bow or 1" groups per 10 yards (4" groups at 40 yards, 8" groups at 80 yards, etc.). If I feel confident that I can hit within 5" of my aiming point, then I will take the shot at a broadside, deer-sized animal. This accuracy is only achievable by lots of practice at the range using your actual broadheads, wearing your actual hunting clothes, and shooting in different weather conditions. This is not unreasonable as Rage had a contest in 2009 with contestants shooting 5" groups with broadheads at 100 yards. If I hold my anchor point after the shot, use the right grip, and practice with at least 50 arrows twice a week, this level of shooting is possible. Most of the time, the distance to the target is only part of decision to take the shot. Just as important is the wind and adrenaline causing unsteadiness, the angle of the animal, and therefore the size of the vitals that are visible. I practice using the Wind, Angle, and Range (W.A.R.) at the range to learn which shots I can make 90% of the time and which shots are beyond my limits. This requires an outdoor range with 3D targets at unlimited shooting distances. No matter the weapon nor the outcome, I sleep well taking shots that I'm sure that I can make 90% of the time.
Shooting in the cold is a different ballgame. The same rules apply, so you only take shots that you have proven you will make 90% of the time. But the variables change: Clothing on body, hands, and head all affect the shot. The cold affects your trigger and your follow through, so that affects the arrow impact. And the cold also decreases the arrow velocity and changes the tuning. So when the weather gets below freezing, I start the arrow and broadhead tuning all over. This method usually works until it gets close to 0. Then it's so cold that you need no wind to restart the tuning, or you limit your shot distance due to imminent error. The other factor that can cost you a big miss is the fact that metal shrinks with low temps. The metal in your release shrinks a lot and it can cause premature release. I've had the release work fine at the indoor range at 70 degrees and go off at 3/4 draw on an animal at 10 degrees. So the moral is to practice in the cold if you hunt in the cold!
Shooting in the cold is a different ballgame. The same rules apply, so you only take shots that you have proven you will make 90% of the time. But the variables change: Clothing on body, hands, and head all affect the shot. The cold affects your trigger and your follow through, so that affects the arrow impact. And the cold also decreases the arrow velocity and changes the tuning. So when the weather gets below freezing, I start the arrow and broadhead tuning all over. This method usually works until it gets close to 0. Then it's so cold that you need no wind to restart the tuning, or you limit your shot distance due to imminent error. The other factor that can cost you a big miss is the fact that metal shrinks with low temps. The metal in your release shrinks a lot and it can cause premature release. I've had the release work fine at the indoor range at 70 degrees and go off at 3/4 draw on an animal at 10 degrees. So the moral is to practice in the cold if you hunt in the cold!